Wandering Through Èze Village — A Quiet Morning Above the French Riviera
There’s something magical about the first morning of a trip—the jet lag is real, the coffee hits different, and the air smells like potential. In March 2025, my friend Melissa and I touched down in Nice for a girls trip dedicated to photos, pastries, and letting the Côte d’Azur work its quiet spell on us. We didn’t do much that first day except inhale a meal and collapse into bed. But the next morning, with golden light peeking over the hills, we caught an Uber and headed east for our first day trip: the charming hilltop village of Èze.
The Storybook Charm of Èze Village
Èze Village is the kind of place that seems to have been dreamed into existence—perched dramatically over the Mediterranean, halfway between Nice and Monaco. With roots dating back to the 8th century, Èze has seen Romans, Moors, and the House of Savoy pass through its winding alleyways. Today, the village stands as a beautiful fusion of medieval charm and Riviera elegance. It’s small, steep, and quietly enchanting, with cobbled streets that twist past art galleries, perfumeries, and stone houses that have stood longer than some countries.
Èze isn’t about checking off sights; it’s about slowing down, inhaling rosemary-scented air, and watching light dance on old stones. But if there’s one thing to see here, it’s Jardin Exotique.
The Jardin Exotique: Succulents, Statues & Sea Views
We arrived in Èze around 9 a.m., and while I’d set our Uber destination for the garden itself, our less-than-delighted driver dropped us off at the base of the village. So—on foot we went. We climbed the narrow lanes of Èze, passed shuttered shops (nothing opens until noon), and reached a vending machine outside the garden to grab our entry tickets (€7 per adult).
Perched at the very top of the village on the ruins of a 12th-century castle, Le Jardin Exotique d’Èze is a surreal mix of desert plants and sky-high views. The garden was built after World War II, transforming castle ruins into a vibrant collection of cacti, succulents, and xerophytes from across the world. Add in bronze sculptures by Jean-Philippe Richard of goddess-like figures nestled among the flora, and it feels almost spiritual.
From the top, the 360-degree views are the true showstopper: terracotta rooftops below, the sea shimmering endlessly beyond. It was blissfully quiet that morning, just a few early risers like us and a soft breeze. For about an hour and a half, we wandered, snapped photos, and let the calm sink in.
In truth, there isn’t a ton to do in Èze, especially in the morning. Most shops and restaurants don’t open until midday, which meant our plan for lunch in the village evaporated pretty quickly. We were pretty satisfied with the beauty we’d soaked in and weren’t in the mood to linger. So after catching a glimpse of a tour bus unloading, we took that as our cue.
Getting to Èze Village (Maybe Skip the Train)
One important thing to know: the train from Nice will not take you straight to the village. The train drops you in Èze-sur-Mer at sea level, and the hike up is steep, sweaty, and takes about an hour. That was not on our vibe for Day 1.
Instead, you have two solid options:
Uber or taxi: It’s quick and convenient—in theory. In practice, our drive from Nice took twice as long as estimated thanks to Riviera traffic.
Bus: It’s a cheaper option (Bus #82 from Nice), but for me, bus travel is the most miserable form of transport and an immediate no if there is any other option. But I’m also not a budget traveler and am willing to pay more for comfort and convenience.
In hindsight, I might have taken the train to Èze-sur-Mer and then called an Uber from there. That combo might've saved us time and traffic stress. Still, we got what we came for: morning light, quiet streets, and that unforgettable view.
Would I go back to Èze? Probably not. But I still say it’s a must see when visiting the French Riviera. It’s a perfect half-day stop when you’re based in Nice and want a little mountain-meets-sea drama. Just time it right, aim for the garden, and get out before the tour buses start rolling in.
Should you fancy hiking back down to Èze-sur-mer and taking the train to another stop on the Côte d’Azure, you can follow this path here: Chemin Frederic Nietzsche. It is easy to spot as you exit the medieval village area.
Rarely am I down for an unnecessary nature walk, particularly where there is much to see in little time. So we walked a bit further to (ironically) the bus stop, where we called another Uber to take us to our next country: Monaco, glamor and chaos in equal measure.
Want to see more from our South of France trip? Follow along for the next chapter!